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France’s wine output nears a 70-year low

News|2026/09/20 05:00
France’s wine output nears a 70-year low

Heatwaves and drought are deepening the crisis and forcing the sector to rethink its model.

France’s wine industry is bracing for another difficult year after the country’s agriculture ministry warned that wine production in 2026 could fall to its lowest level in nearly 70 years. If that estimate holds, it would mark a third straight year of declining output.

Florent Latour, head of Maison Louis Latour, told CNBC that he spent the summer hoping for rain. A little more precipitation, he said, could have delivered an outstanding crop, but instead the estate ended up with strong quality and only about half a harvest in volume terms. CNBC said similar conditions have been felt across French wine regions as record heat and severe drought weigh on the sector.

Jean-Marie Cardebat, head of wines and spirits at INSEEC Grande École, said the 2023 vintage was acceptable, but yields have been “pretty disastrous” since the start of the decade. In his view, no French wine region can now be considered fully safe from heatwaves. The most affected areas, paradoxically, have been the more temperate Loire Valley and Champagne, while winemakers in the southern regions of Bordeaux and Languedoc-Roussillon reported better harvests than a year earlier.

Cardebat argues that a major part of the problem is France’s limited preparation for climate change. He contrasted the situation with Spain, saying that although Spain faces heatwaves and global warming more often, it is better prepared, partly because it already has irrigation networks in place. In France, such systems remain rare and are generally allowed only in exceptional cases.

Climate change is challenging old rules

The pressure from climate change is also intensifying debate over the strict rules governing France’s wine sector. Last year, Chateau Lafleur withdrew its six wines from the prestigious Pomerol and broader Bordeaux official designations. The estate, owned by the Guinaudeau family, said rigid AOC rules — including restrictions on irrigation, planting density and permitted grape varieties — prevented it from adapting quickly enough to changing conditions.

According to the family, stepping away from those rules would allow the vineyard to respond to “the reality of climate change” with greater precision and effectiveness, while protecting the long-term sustainability of its vineyards and the quality and identity of its wines.

Harvests are moving earlier

Another consequence of higher temperatures is earlier grape picking, which creates major logistical challenges. Latour said harvesting at the Latour estate began on Aug. 14 this year, the earliest date on record there. Measured by decade, he said, the midpoint of the harvest is shifting about three days earlier every 10 years, meaning the overall schedule has moved by roughly a month since the 1930s.

That change, he added, has turned labor flexibility into one of the sector’s biggest problems, because vineyard teams must now be ready to move at very short notice as traditional forecasts become less reliable.

The economic fallout could deepen

The impact goes beyond vineyards. Cardebat said this year’s harvest could push France down to third place among wine-producing countries, whereas 12 to 15 years ago it was still in first place ahead of Italy. Italy is now clearly leading, he said, and Spain could also overtake France.

He described that shift as symbolic but also financially important, because it points to a major loss of potential revenue for France and for the companies involved. In early September, the government cut France’s 2026 growth forecast to 0.5% from 1%, estimating that heatwaves and drought would shave 0.1 percentage point off growth this year.

At the same time, production costs are rising while the capacity to invest is shrinking. Cardebat said wine estates’ finances are being drained: the more climate disruption intensifies, the less room producers have to invest, even as the need for investment grows. He also said business failures in the wine sector tripled between 2019 and 2025, and that 2026 could prove just as severe.

At the end of the summer, the French government announced an emergency support package worth more than 1 billion euros, or about $1.15 billion, for farmers and winegrowers affected by heatwaves. Cardebat said the investment needed for adaptation could accelerate consolidation in the sector, where estates have already been getting larger over the past quarter century.

Latour said maintaining quality increasingly requires scale, because producers need to absorb higher spending on labor, equipment and facilities. Still, he added, family ownership and family management are now valued more highly than in the past.

Consumption is falling and markets are shifting

Climate stress is hitting the industry at a time when it is already dealing with a structural decline in consumption. The report notes that daily wine consumption in France fell from nearly 50% of the population in 1960 to under 10% in 2018. Higher inflation and tariffs over the past five years have also contributed to rising wine inventories.

As a result, estates are uprooting vines to cut output. In Bordeaux alone, around 20,000 hectares have been removed since 2023, leaving 83,000 hectares still under vine. In 2026, about 4% of all French vines are due to be pulled under a government support scheme that will pay growers 4,000 euros per hectare for permanently removing vines.

Against that backdrop, the industry is moving quickly to explore new markets, new products and new consumers. Cardebat pointed to entirely different formats, including ready-to-drink offerings, and said the United States is a strong testing ground for winning over buyers with new products. He also named South America, Brazil and India as promising growth markets for French wine, helped by trade agreements signed in recent years.

For Latour, the younger generation and expansion into more distant markets are central. He said the priority is to make high-quality wine more affordable. Maison Louis Latour now sees South America, Brazil and the African continent as important markets as well, partly because of their younger demographics.

Despite the pressure, Latour remains cautiously optimistic. In his view, the sector still has an attractive future if producers can clearly explain the context, appellation and history behind the wines they serve in a way that resonates with younger consumers, while continuing to deliver quality.

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